Denim is a coarse twilled fabric, usually cotton, with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs made by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a step or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well, and are used in jeans, overalls, work uniforms, jackets, and a variety of other garments. Because of its popularity and durability, denim has also found applications in accessories, upholstery, draperies, and linens.
Twill fabrics technically have a front and a back side, unlike plain weave, where the two sides are the same. The front side of the twill is usually called the technical face and the back is called the technical back. The technical face side of a twill weave fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale. It is usually more durable, more attractive, and most often used as the fashion side of the fabric. This side is usually the side visible during weaving. If there are warp floats on the technical face (if the warp crosses over two or more wefts), there will be filling floats (the weft will cross over two or more warps) on the technical back. If the twill wale goes up to the right on one side, it will go up to the left on the other side.
Although available in many colors, more traditional denim fabric gets its characteristic blue color from the weaving of indigo dyed warp threads and white or natural weft threads.
Traditionally, denim fabric was 100% cotton. However, there are now denim fabrics that contain cotton blends. For fashion apparel, some textile manufacturers have woven the base cotton fiber with stretch fibers, silk, and/or metallic threads. For work garments, on the other hand, textile manufacturers need to focus on providing protection in the form of fire resistance (FR) and abrasion resistance. Because of its durability and comfort, denim fabrics are often used in work clothing, including pants, overalls, jumpsuits, and jackets. Conventional FR denim products achieve their fire protection from fire resistant treatments/additives. The terms “treated” or “topically treated” refer to a manufacturing step where a special mixture of chemicals is added to non-FR fabric, such as cotton or cotton/nylon blends, to make the final fabric fire resistant. While fabrics made with inherently FR fibers, retain their FR protection throughout the life of the garment, chemically treated FR fabrics may have their flame resistant properties reduced or removed completely depending on how, and how many times these fabrics are laundered. Likewise, exposure to certain chemicals in the work environment may also diminish or eliminate the fabric FR properties. Sometimes, the treatments/additives adversely impact the comfort, including the moisture management properties (such as water release rate, horizontal and vertical wicking, and drying time). Slower drying times also lead to inconvenience and additional costs with respect to laundering. Denim fabrics that absorb large percentages of their dry weight in water or sweat lead to uncomfortable, saturated heavy fabric against the skin which can lead to rashes, skin irritation, and overall discomfort and promote environments that lead to odor formation. In addition, fiber selection to achieve fire resistance, moisture management, and abrasion resistance often negatively impacts the ability to dye the fabric, especially so that it has a traditional denim look and feel.
Accordingly, it would be desirable to provide a fabric or garment that provides permanent inherent fire resistance, arc protection, improved moisture management (water release rate, wicking, and drying time), and abrasion resistance and which may be dyed to have the desired appearance. The woven fabric and garments of the present invention are directed toward these, as well as other, important ends.